Hi new here. Want to buy a VR4 need your advise please?

[Paul_JJ]

Hi!

I used to have a Glanza V (177 bhp) in the past, but since I have a family now we needed a bigger car, I moved to an NA Galant but that is too slow for me -) So decided to look for a VR4.


Now please, please I would like to listen what/where I should look/check for before buying a VR4 Legnum? What are the weak spots - like the Glanza used to have rear calipers for example and exhaust manifold and so on. What the are the weaknesses of the VR4 please?

I can see a car for sale on Ebay near Manchester. Anyone from that Area?
How much do they sell for these day - standard ones?
What is the MPG like - worst? best? average?

Do they rust like the UK Galants?


Thank you in advance!

Paul

[Pugme]

Mpg, mines around 18 :-)

Welcome in bud

[Nick Mann]

Biggest weakness is rust. Rear arches and front strut towers seem to be worst.

Post up the car/advert and we will have a look.

[Paul_JJ]

Tried to post a link here, it wasn't approved... Either way it's just 2 cars on Ebay for sale and I'm after an Auto one, so pretty easy to find - it's not far from Manchester. The owner refused to bring the car to the garage for inspection but offered to bring my mechanic with me for any inspections...

[giblet]

Hey up, welcome to the mad house.

I'm guessing this is the car you are referring to? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/1996-...t/171923428595

If so then that seems like an alright price. Some surface rust on the nsf strut in the engine bay area. Worth asking the owner for any pics before the underseal was applied as they are known to rust in a few spots and underseal can hide a multitude of sins.

Edit. Expect 18mpg round town, a bit more on a run. I had a lpg conversion done by a fellow member who is based in Manchester and it's saved me loads. There are a few members in and around Cheshire, hopefully one of them will chime in.

[giblet]

@adaxo @Davezj @carfanatic Any thoughts folks?

[Paul_JJ]

Yeah, that's the one! I suppose it was indeed rusted if he undersealed the car and then took all the pictures -) But the car looks pretty good to me and the price seems to be fair, assuming the car has no mechanical faults. Also the thing is I never drove one - so it would be hard for me to say if engine/gearbox/steering/turbo are mechanically good or not. So unless someone experienced will test-drive it for me and then let me know their testimonials I wouldn't know for sure otherwise -)

My question is - why the seller is hiding the number plates? any idea?
What's the insurance like?
18 mpg in town sounds a bit too much, but it's AWD, so would be great fun in bad weather and snow I believe??? Also LPG conversion sounds like a great idea!!! But is it really safe for the Engine? I heard that it's ok for NA but might have issues with high boost -)


I really find it hard to believe that the cars really doesn't have any mechanical problems, surely there might be some other issues apart from the rust?

[Davezj]

one thing i will say is at a quick glance it looks like the dyno sheet is for the car for sale but it is not the can for sale is standard one.
also dont expect a quick remap and achieve the figures on the dyno sheet. you might get to 320 but not 360. standard Pre Facelift auto is 260.

i would agree rust is the issue rear arches and front suspension turrents.

but will say LPG is you friend with VR4 and can save you loads of money. there is a local LPG supplier near workden that does it for 40p\L i pay 52p at the end of my road.
i left it 3 years before converting my vr4, and i wasted about so much money on petrol that i could have spent modding my car.

[giblet]

If any existing rust wasn't removed and a rust convertor applied before the underseal then the fresh underseal won't really help.

Pity you didn't post this last week, I was in Cheshire on Sunday to pick up some discs from a fellow member. Auto boxes can jave issues if the fluid isn't changed with the proper stuff. Ayc pump may require a refurb as it's a known weak point but a replacement switch can help. The car is a prefacelift auto so will be 260bhp when new. Expect 300 max with a good service, fmic, plugs, fuel pump and a decat with a remap. The stock ecu can be flashed but you need to find someone with the gear and the knowledge. Bigger turbos require custom manifold etc.

Insurance depends on the usual criteria of postcode, age and claims/conviction history. My renewal has come back at £815 fully comp with mods declared and 6 years ncb, I'm 28.

[giblet]

As for LPG if done by a professional then it will run perfectly. Mine has covered over 10k on gas without issues. I managed 19.8mpg on my last tank which was mainly motorway miles with some "spirited" overtakes and some town driving. At 49.9p a litre that's more than 40mpg in comparison to v power prices.

[giblet]

Forgot to say, the buyers guide is a little out of date but worth reading. http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/content...4-Buyers-Guide

[Paul_JJ]

I see. Thank you for the info, very useful for me!

I don't plan to mod it at first, i believe the standard is fast enough for a first year -) However decent air filter and iridium spark plugs and uprated brakes ( like Mintex 1144 - my favorites), surely would help! How is the standard brakes by the way? Is suspension any good for the area with bad road surface any idea? Is it stiff or rather soft?
Any idea how much is the refurb for the AYC pump?

As I understand the 360 bhp pictures relates to his friend, but why post it with the pics of the car - no idea.
I'm 32 with 8 years NCB, so hopefully will be cheaper for me -)

[giblet]

Stock brakes are average at best, usual upgrade is either uprated discs and pads or a brembo conversion from an Evo but that requires a few extra bits for a prefacelift car plus bigger wheels. Stock suspension is alright, mine was fine but I changed to coilovers over a year ago but have never lowered them from factory height! AYC refurb prices vary but budget for £300 or so from a specialist.

[Paul_JJ]

OK. Thank you for your answers!

You mentioned proper stuff for AUTO boxes what' the proper stuff can anyone advise? Same as for Galant Auto or would that be something for TipTronic only?

[giblet]

Amsoil fluids are widely regarded as the best for our cars. Adam who is based in Worsley supplies it now, he's also pretty handy with the spanners if you need your car servicing

[Pugme]

I just renewed my insurance at £400, I'm 33 with 9 yncb and my car is Considerably modified in more than one aspect.

But insurance is very post code related too

[adaxo]

hi and

been call in so, where to start?

Car linked looks decent to me, bear in mind that's a almost 20 years old jap performance car so not expect to be perfect and spotless, hence I said it looks decent, 'for a year', apart from this dyno sheet, as they looks (to me) 'a bit' optimistic, you see guys on here spend A LOT of £ for various mods and are not even close to that BHP so this is a bit stinky. Car looks not modified (which is a good thing IMO) and with standard wheels/suspension set-up, so I would said it was not own by 'boy racer' b4, coolant overflow tank looks empty which is not a good sight. that's all what I can say from pictures

I'm sure some of us, local-ish to the seller, will be more than happy to have a look on this example with you, if you decide to see it (im usually free on Sundays) and give some tips if you should go away or have it.

Weak points?

RUST!, but in this example rear wheel arches looks still intact :-) and front strut towers not look as bad so I assume rest could be pretty solid, AUTOGBOX can let go without warning if neglected BUT, in worst case scenario, replacement auto gbox cost about £300-£500 so its not that bad (if its ok then proper flush with new AMSoil should be priority after purchase [about £150]), front lower arms should be check, or even better, replaced for peace of mind that wheel not disengage from car, there's not much more to worry about, they pretty solid engine/drive train/electric/suspension wise, brakes usually not are efficient enough for spiriting drive but they not so bad after good refurbish and decent pads/discs combo or brembo conversion.
And the last thing (for me at least :-) ) they are thirsty, but there its alternative fuel available which works great on vr4, more recent details here

At the end of this lengthy post, I would say, if you know which way to turn spanner to undo bolts and have a decent set of sockets then ALL info, how to live with this creature call VR4, can be found there, just become a fully paid member and it will be the best £20 spend on your car, if you relay on mechanic in your corner garage, or even worst, 'big brand auto centre' avoid any almost 20 years old Japanese metal.


ah btw forget about insurance, its cheap, for me and my miss, both 35 and with 13 NCD BUT live in M postcode was £260 this year, which even surprise me as I usually pay about £500 for it


btw 2, sellers usually cover reg for two reasons, buyer cant run HPI checks (unlikely as you can always do this while viewing car) or not want this car (plate) to be 'cloned' on other part of country, IMO

[giblet]

Who are you insured with Adam?

[adaxo]

Who are you insured with Adam?

Performance direct, IIRC

[giblet]

Performance direct, IIRC

*****rs just quoted me £1200!