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Thread: Looking to possibly invest in a Vr-4, but I have some questions.

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Mann View Post
    Top end is around 150 mph on a standard car. Gearing will run out not long after on a manual version.

    0-60 is in the low 6s on a standard car. The tuning that people are mentioning above doesn't give headline power increase because our turbos are too small to flow at high revs. What is does do is give a massive torque increase in the mid range, so 0-60 times can drop to high 4s.
    By standard do you mean auto or manual? Oh, that's great! So with 325-350bhp, could I expect a low 5 second time? So from what you're saying, there's not much of a difference in terms of the auto and manual variants? What would you personally recommend?

    Quote Originally Posted by giblet View Post
    All 3 of mine have been daily drivers but switching to LPG has allowed me to do more miles than I normally would simply because the cost per mile is so low. I went from spending £60 or so a week on a tank of V Power to £25-27 a week on a tank of gas. I still stick £20 of V Power in a month as the car starts on petrol and then switches over to gas once the temps are right. Majority of my driving is town based, my commute to work is just under 3 miles each way and I nip home at lunchtimes so as you can imagine there is a lot of stop start traffic. I've done long motorway trips and Sunday morning hoons out in the countryside on LPG with zero issues.

    My car is an auto, I haven't driven a manual so can't comment on top end in that regard or performance and economy on the manuals. My car seemed to run out of grunt at around an indicated 135mph before my remap but managed to get close to 150 indicated after the map.
    That's great to hear! After hearing this, I'm definitely more inclined to do an LPG conversion once I get my car, thanks! I wonder if it'll go beyond the 150mph mark..

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris.W View Post
    Yup that's the figures mine will make, and it is a manual too. As i said is dialled back a touch for safety. As for top end, as Nick says I would say around 150ish but I never given it that much tho, chickened out at 145mph on a German autobahn.
    Was a Carrera 2.
    Damn, that's great! Do you personally know of any in-depth difference between the auto and manual variants?

    --

    What's the gearing like on these? Apologies about being a pain, but what speed is each gear capable of hitting?

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    you really need to try using the search function, or just read through some of the threads on here. These are the sort of questions which get asked over and over.
    '97 Manual Legnum in silver with some subtle mods

    My first VR4 - '97 Legnum Dark Green & mean ...it was love at first sight - now sold

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    Just want to thank all you guys for the tech information, knowledge, expertise and support. Really useful to know the specs and what can be expected when fitted. Great stuff!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TAR View Post
    you really need to try using the search function, or just read through some of the threads on here. These are the sort of questions which get asked over and over.
    Apologies!

    Quote Originally Posted by sagaris View Post
    Just want to thank all you guys for the tech information, knowledge, expertise and support. Really useful to know the specs and what can be expected when fitted. Great stuff!!
    Yeah, agreed!

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    For a quick auto vs manual conclusion, auto is better round town and for traffic light grand prix. Manual is more rewarding on track and quicker once rolling. Both are fine in every scenario.

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    I've had both and they each had there good point and bad points.
    At the end of the day tho I am a manual fan. Just prefer being in control of the gears. The auto has a semi auto manual function which is good and is generally the way i would drive mine. But I found it wasn't so keen on the downshift, if it thought your revs were too high.

    By standard we mean not tuned or modified irrespective of gearbox type.
    '96 Galant VR4 manual
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    More to come, eventually.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Mann View Post
    For a quick auto vs manual conclusion, auto is better round town and for traffic light grand prix. Manual is more rewarding on track and quicker once rolling. Both are fine in every scenario.
    Yeah, I've liked the idea of the semi-auto, but the gear box can be a pain if the previous owner hasn't maintained it properly. Plus I down shift quite a bit, so I guess manual would be the better alternative. I know there's probably already a thread in regards to a conversion, but in short, would you be able to tell me of whether or not converting from auto to manual is tedious task?

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris.W View Post
    I've had both and they each had there good point and bad points.
    At the end of the day tho I am a manual fan. Just prefer being in control of the gears. The auto has a semi auto manual function which is good and is generally the way i would drive mine. But I found it wasn't so keen on the downshift, if it thought your revs were too high.

    By standard we mean not tuned or modified irrespective of gearbox type.
    Yeah, I guess manual it is then! I'd hate the hesitation because I down shift quite a lot haha. Hopefully, I can find a good one! Ahh, gotcha! Thanks!

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    The automatic gearbox in these is VERY good, and great for most driving conditions.

    You will NOT be able to accurately assess it, or accurately determine the effectiveness of it (including the semi-manual aspect), on a short test drive. You do need to adjust your thinking slightly on how you drive it in semi-manual mode, however, once you have learnt this, these "limitations" all but disappear.


    Basically, the only thing it will do, is that it won't allow you to downshift if the act of changing gear will put the engine revs above the rev limiter.

    On a manual, you can sometimes use this, along with some clever clutch control, to initiate a little bit of engine braking. But, generally, you want to (and, usually will) avoid a downshift if the resulting revs will be too high. Only in this, you've got a computer preventing you from doing so.


    Where are you in the country? There is bound to be someone nearby who will be prepared to take you for a spin in theirs, and can show you how to use the automatic gearbox. If you're anywhere near Nottingham, then I am more than happy to show you how to drive one of these cars properly - and you'll soon see that the automatic gearbox is very, very capable, once you know how it works, and have adjusted your thinking accordingly.

    I've had mine for 6 and a half years, and have done well over 85,000 miles in it. Mechanically, other than routine maintenance, it's not cost me very much at all to run this car. I think in all this time, the only "non-scheduled" things I've had fail are a rear wheel bearing, and an ignition failure sensor. I've also had to replace my downpipes due to the flexi's rusting through, and do a few spots of rust repair.



    So, to sum up... don't disregard an auto (most of them ARE auto, so finding a manual can be difficult) - buy based on condition rather than the gearbox. Swapping to a manual box will probably cost you about £1000 in parts, and if you can't do the work yourself, then it's labour costs on top of that.

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    The auto does NOT hesitate...

    It is sensible about preventing over revving the engine.

    If you want to check speed of gear change, I believe that manual is slower.

    Manual - you decide to change down, you put foot by clutch, hand on gear lever, press throttle to match revs, press clutch, change down, let clutch out and then press throttle...

    Auto - you decide to change down, you keep foot on throttle, put hand on gear lever, change down, foot still on throttle...

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    As chris g says - with the tiptronic, you simply move the gear lever when you'd be thinking about dipping the clutch. Job done.

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    Manual cars are rare and parts for conversion rarely come up for sale. The tiptronic box learns how you drive and adapts its shifting to match your style.
    I've owned both and currently have a manual which I prefer for the driving engagement but would happily own another auto.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    The automatic gearbox in these is VERY good, and great for most driving conditions.

    You will NOT be able to accurately assess it, or accurately determine the effectiveness of it (including the semi-manual aspect), on a short test drive. You do need to adjust your thinking slightly on how you drive it in semi-manual mode, however, once you have learnt this, these "limitations" all but disappear.


    Basically, the only thing it will do, is that it won't allow you to downshift if the act of changing gear will put the engine revs above the rev limiter.

    On a manual, you can sometimes use this, along with some clever clutch control, to initiate a little bit of engine braking. But, generally, you want to (and, usually will) avoid a downshift if the resulting revs will be too high. Only in this, you've got a computer preventing you from doing so.


    Where are you in the country? There is bound to be someone nearby who will be prepared to take you for a spin in theirs, and can show you how to use the automatic gearbox. If you're anywhere near Nottingham, then I am more than happy to show you how to drive one of these cars properly - and you'll soon see that the automatic gearbox is very, very capable, once you know how it works, and have adjusted your thinking accordingly.

    I've had mine for 6 and a half years, and have done well over 85,000 miles in it. Mechanically, other than routine maintenance, it's not cost me very much at all to run this car. I think in all this time, the only "non-scheduled" things I've had fail are a rear wheel bearing, and an ignition failure sensor. I've also had to replace my downpipes due to the flexi's rusting through, and do a few spots of rust repair.



    So, to sum up... don't disregard an auto (most of them ARE auto, so finding a manual can be difficult) - buy based on condition rather than the gearbox. Swapping to a manual box will probably cost you about £1000 in parts, and if you can't do the work yourself, then it's labour costs on top of that.
    Thank you for the reply! I highly appreciate your knowledge! I'm based in Hertfordshire (outskirts of North West London), so getting to you could be a task, haha. So, it'll let you down shift as long as you're below hitting the rev limiter or am I still mistaken?

    Quote Originally Posted by chris g View Post
    The auto does NOT hesitate...

    It is sensible about preventing over revving the engine.

    If you want to check speed of gear change, I believe that manual is slower.

    Manual - you decide to change down, you put foot by clutch, hand on gear lever, press throttle to match revs, press clutch, change down, let clutch out and then press throttle...

    Auto - you decide to change down, you keep foot on throttle, put hand on gear lever, change down, foot still on throttle...
    Ahh yeah, I'm more keen on the auto now! Whilst I love the involvement of the manual, I like the idea that anyone in my family could take this for a drive if they'd like to. Given that it lets you down shift as long as you're below hitting the rev limiter, I'm all for it!

    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    As chris g says - with the tiptronic, you simply move the gear lever when you'd be thinking about dipping the clutch. Job done.
    Yeah, the convenience seems great! I wouldn't mind the extra gearbox maintenance per 10k miles. I'd just like to think that the previous owner hasn't abused it or has maintained it on a regular basis!

    Quote Originally Posted by TAR View Post
    Manual cars are rare and parts for conversion rarely come up for sale. The tiptronic box learns how you drive and adapts its shifting to match your style.
    I've owned both and currently have a manual which I prefer for the driving engagement but would happily own another auto.
    Yeah, true. I'm not mechanically minded, so the labour charges could be rather pricey!

    --

    Thank you so much for the responses guys! Please keep them coming if you have any additional knowledge to share!

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    I'll take you for a run if you are ever over my way.
    Proverbs 20:29

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    Quote Originally Posted by John TheAntique View Post
    I'll take you for a run if you are ever over my way.
    Yeah, you're actually only about 20 minutes away! I wouldn't even mind funding your fuel for the run, haha! Do you have the auto or manual variant?

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    Gear changes are quicker with an auto but you lose a bit of power to the wheels.
    As Garry says, tiptronic let's you do anything as long as you won't damage the engine, so no selecting 5th at 30mph or selecting 2nd at 80mph. If you hold a gear and accelerate the engine will bounce off the rev limiter but the car still won't change gear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by J18A! View Post
    Yeah, you're actually only about 20 minutes away! I wouldn't even mind funding your fuel for the run, haha! Do you have the auto or manual variant?
    You're welcome. Auto, and I wouldn't swop it for a manual even if it was free ! I live above the shop so I am free most days.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Mann View Post
    Gear changes are quicker with an auto but you lose a bit of power to the wheels.
    As Garry says, tiptronic let's you do anything as long as you won't damage the engine, so no selecting 5th at 30mph or selecting 2nd at 80mph. If you hold a gear and accelerate the engine will bounce off the rev limiter but the car still won't change gear.
    Yeah, since the revs would be too low at 30, and beyond the limit at 80? Ahh right! So as long as you're not below idle and over the limiter, then it'll let you shift right? How significant is the power loss?

    Quote Originally Posted by John TheAntique View Post
    You're welcome. Auto, and I wouldn't swop it for a manual even if it was free ! I live above the shop so I am free most days.
    Yeah, I guess it's pretty convenient! May have to take you up on that soon if that's cool!

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    OK any time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by John TheAntique View Post
    OK any time.
    Thanks! I'll message you soon.

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    The power loss isn't very significant - on a dyno I think we use a 7% correction on an auto to guesstimate the flywheel power.

    We did a day at Curborough a couple of years ago for Club VR-4's 10th anniversary, and I was the 3rd quickest VR-4, with a pretty much standard auto, other than slightly increased boost with a basic electronic boost controller.

    I can't remember whether those who were faster than me were also auto, or whether they were manual - but, as I said before, once you know how to drive an auto, the limitations of it all but disappear

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