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Thread: Disaster update

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    Disaster update

    Hi all just an update on my leggy it's now in the garage for its engine transplant but have found out my turbo's have gone I have managed to source a pair which will arrive on Friday but the thing that is sticking in my head is that is it worth ploughing all this cash into the car don't get me wrong I love the car but at the mo I've spent 600 on an engine and 200 for turbo's plus I've got garage labour charges on top am I throwing good money down the drain

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    It's always a worry, I have just done a lot of work on mine, and it is looked after well, but a failed auto box or rear diff could be just round the corner!!, I love the Legnum , 12 years ownership now!, and I still haven't seen anything style or substance that I would change it for, so maybe not the best financial decision, but upgrading things and keeping it up to date with modern cars is what I do.
    I'm still better off than buying a brand new car and the depreciation it looses in the first year!
    Keep on Legnuming!
    Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.

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    I think that I may just ride the storm for now as what I'm spending on the car I would never get back if I sold or stripped car for spares n hopefully once engine and turbo's are in and it's ok l will probably fall in love with my leggy all over again lol

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    so long as the rest of the car is in good condition, then that kind of spend is reasonable in my eyes.
    '97 Manual Legnum in silver with some subtle mods

    My first VR4 - '97 Legnum Dark Green & mean ...it was love at first sight - now sold

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    Thanks tar rest of car is solid especially rear arches so for that reason and some of the bits n bobs I've put on it is my sense of justifying it all just hoping replacement engine comes up trumps

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    Found out why old engine died oil pump failed be warned people keep on top of ya engine oil

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    Anyone knows what oil pressure figures should I expect at idle? Suspect my oil pump fail in the nearest future...
    It's below 0,5 bar right now... But raises with throttle

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    To low Alex.
    Should hold 1 - 1.5bar idle (warm/hot oil) and 3 - 4 bar on cruise with hot oil.
    Ex: Galant VR4
    Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
    Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
    Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar

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    Really?! I'm not even near... :-o Cruise is fine, but idle pressure is non-existing... Defi's go beep-crazy every time I stop
    Garage time then, I'll guess...

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    Quote Originally Posted by kennyt123 View Post
    Hi all just an update on my leggy it's now in the garage for its engine transplant but have found out my turbo's have gone I have managed to source a pair which will arrive on Friday but the thing that is sticking in my head is that is it worth ploughing all this cash into the car don't get me wrong I love the car but at the mo I've spent 600 on an engine and 200 for turbo's plus I've got garage labour charges on top am I throwing good money down the drain
    Hope you don't mind me asking, but how much do you think the labour would generally cost?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by J18A View Post
    Hope you don't mind me asking, but how much do you think the labour would generally cost?
    Also interested to know how much your paying for transplant. Reason being what with the cold/wet/snowy weather predicted over the next couple of months and lack of cover I might just be lazy and pay someone to do it for me haha.

  12. #12
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    I've never completely took a VR4 engine apart, but I did do that with a V6 N/A Galant 6A13 engine and found the oil pump is in fact these two 'gearwheels' that compress the oil and create the oil pressure. I can't imagine it being something different in the VR4 engine, but... how can this wear or change in function to stop building pressure?

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    the margines of ware on the gear wheels and the houses are microscopic, you are talking about 0.15mm (few thou of inch) of ware is the difference between building the required pressure and not building enough pressure. so ware can occur.

    from my experience with car gauges
    i think it depends where you are measuring the pressure. the comon place is at the filter in a sandwich plate, which is ware i measure mine and i have never read anything other than 0psi at hot idle and higher at cold idle. but i measure high pressure at normal driving conditions.
    you also have to consider the accuracy of the gauge was it sold with a calibration certificate (probably not) so you can only use it to see if the oil pressure changes as expected and not for absolute value reading. you oil pressure might be 1 bar but you gauge reads 0.1bar.

    what you have to consider with oil pressure gauges and gauges in general that you fit to a car is

    was the car running ok before you fitted the gauge? Yes or No
    if yes then you have to assume everything is OK with pressures and temps when you fit the gauge.

    what is the reading on the newly fitted gauge when you fit it. you have to assume this is your normal set of operating values for your car.

    if this normal set of valves starts to change then you can assume that something has changed in you car to make these changes occur, but dont rule out gauge sensor failure/change.

    what i am saying is gauges in cars can only be used to monitor change not absolute values. if this all makes sense.

    Bye for Now!

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    Hi Ernie my garage is charging me 45 quid an hour so I'm bracing myself for the bill but will keep u all up to date but I think it will be done some time this week

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    Quote Originally Posted by J18A View Post
    Hope you don't mind me asking, but how much do you think the labour would generally cost?
    Back in the days when I used to do it, I would charge approx £300 labour. Fluids etc all on top of that. Then other jobs come additionally on top, such as spark plugs, seals, gaskets etc.

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    I told the garage just to do a straight forward engine swap with no frills only other things would be engine oil n coolant that's it cos I could do other bits n bobs me self to try n keep costs down its been in since last Wednesday I peeked in today and it looks like my engine is in so hopefully not to long now

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    You split the gearbox from the engine which means gearbox oil and transfer box oil plus coolant and engine oil. Filters as required too.
    You can leave the power steering and air conditioning pumps in the engine bay to avoid having to refill those too.
    Using quality lubricants on an auto VR4 means well over £200.

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    And do make sure they use the correct ATF fluid, most of us use Amsoil, because if you don't you will hasve more problems.
    Proverbs 20:29

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    Engine I purchased came with gearbox attached so he didn't need to split them but I agree with all the oils etc but he also said he would be going to mitsubishi for all the oils but I will have to wait n see on that one lol

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