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Thread: ABS ring won't fit

  1. #1

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    ABS ring won't fit

    My VR4 needs a rear ABS ring replacing, however, the garage have ordered 2 rings and neither had them have been the right size and have been too small. The mechanic says the interal diameter needed is 69 (I'm presuming mm).

    Any ideas where I can get the correct size for my car?

    It's a 2000 plate facelift saloon.

    Thanks guys.

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    How is he trying to fit it.
    The surface of the outer cv joint has to be very clean and the abs ring has to be heated so the ring expands then when it cools down it locks onto the cv joint.


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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    How is he trying to fit it.
    The surface of the outer cv joint has to be very clean and the abs ring has to be heated so the ring expands then when it cools down it locks onto the cv joint.


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    I had the same issue with my previous VR4, he had no trouble with that. I believe he said it has the right amount of teeth, just not the correct diameter?

    Is it worth contacting Mitsubishi? Don't know what else to suggest really...

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    Confused's Avatar

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    This is what I purchased and fitted to my pre facelift Legnum.

    I'm not aware that it changed on the facelift.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    This is what I purchased and fitted to my pre facelift Legnum.

    I'm not aware that it changed on the facelift.
    My mechanic said there's two rings and one of them is on like a 'step' and the ring needs to be about 3mm wider. He's done plenty of them before and used heat but says this is an odd ball one?

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    No idea myself on a facelift. But get in touch with the people I linked, they should be able to help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    No idea myself on a facelift. But get in touch with the people I linked, they should be able to help.
    Will do, thanks for your help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    This is what I purchased and fitted to my pre facelift Legnum.

    I'm not aware that it changed on the facelift.
    Took a gamble and purchased this one - perfect fit! Thanks alot

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    Perfect! Great to know it fits a facelift too!

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    To. Ring an old thread back to life, I have been told the grinding I hear from the front when braking is due to my rear ABS rings? It stops when the AYC light comes on in the dash. I'm more than happy to buy them but do I need to replace the ABS sensors with them? I can't find a listing for them anywhere or am I just being a twat as normal?
    Oh Matron

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    Sounds more like a ayc pump/hydraulic pressure issue if the noise stops when the auction light comes on on the dash

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    I think it's the AYC pump myself, wouldn't do any harm to change it out and see what's what I guess

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    for starters just pull the AYC fuse and go for a drive if the noise has gone then it is probably the AYC pump

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    I pulled the ABs fuse behind the coin tray and it's gone. No push back through the pedal and no grinding. AYC light still lit up on the dash though.

    I will pop it back in and pull the AYC and see if there is a difference. Just so I know as I'm still learning , where is the AYC fuse?
    Last edited by karbonology; 30-04-2017 at 10:30 PM. Reason: Addition

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    A dodgy ABS ring will cause all these issues (the noise is probably the ABS pump activating to modulate the brakes because it thinks a wheel is locking) - this will then cause the AYC to fail because it also uses these wheel sensors, but all it's other sensors tells it that it shouldn't be seeing those signals.

    Checking for a broken ring is really easy - jack up the car, slowly turn each wheel whilst looking at the toothed ring - you'll probably see where the break is. It's not often the sensor itself is damaged.

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    Just read the post and you say the grinding noise is coming from the front not the rear.
    The grinding is not the ayc pump as that is in the rear of the car behind the drivers side rear wheel under the car.
    The ayc light coming on the dash is probably coincidental, but the ayc does use i puts from the again wheel speed sensors. To gauge what traction is available.

    As confused said above jack car up lock at the driveshaft going into the hub from the inside of the wheel and make sure all teeth are visible on the abs wheel for a full rotation of the wheel.
    If you can't get a good look at the wheel due to the teeth being clogged up with crap.
    Don't start jabbing it with a screwdriver the abs teeth can break off quite easily. Use some wd40 to wet the crud and air line to blow it off. Or some high pressure carb cleaner or a hose pipe and water or pressure washer but not close up.
    You just want to be able to see the individual teeth.
    I have had it where a build up of br

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    A dodgy ABS ring will cause all these issues (the noise is probably the ABS pump activating to modulate the brakes because it thinks a wheel is locking) - this will then cause the AYC to fail because it also uses these wheel sensors, but all it's other sensors tells it that it shouldn't be seeing those signals.

    Checking for a broken ring is really easy - jack up the car, slowly turn each wheel whilst looking at the toothed ring - you'll probably see where the break is. It's not often the sensor itself is damaged.

    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    hi Just read the post again and you say the grinding noise is coming from the front not the rear.
    As Garry says above,
    The grinding is not the ayc pump as that is in the rear of the car behind the drivers side rear wheel under the car.
    The ayc light coming on the dash is probably coincidental, but the ayc does use inputs from the abs wheel speed sensors to gauge what traction is available.

    As confused said above jack car up lock at the driveshaft going into the hub from the inside of the wheel and make sure all teeth are visible on the abs wheel for a full rotation of the wheel.
    If you can't get a good look at the wheel due to the teeth being clogged up with crap.
    Don't start jabbing it with a screwdriver the abs teeth can break off quite easily. Use some wd40 to wet the crud and air line to blow it off. Or some high pressure carb cleaner or a hose pipe and water or pressure washer but not close up.
    You just want to be able to see the individual teeth.
    I have had it where a build up of brake dust has confused the abs sensor and after a clean of the abs wheel it has worked find.
    Brake pad material contains metal and carbon amongst other things.

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    Thanks guys, appreciate the advice. That's my Bank Holiday Monday sorted out then

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