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Test the alternators with a socket in a drill and put it on the nut on the pulley and see if you get and output.
They are a pain in the arse to change so make sure it works and make sure the other do not.
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Bye for Now!
I did run them with my electric wrench but results was odd at least my original doesn't show output volts and 2 other show couple volts.
You would need to have some small voltage supply connected to the field terminals to get any significant output when bench testing. Unlike the old generators of years past an alternator doesn't hold much residual magnetism to start it, the field is energised from the battery, often via the dashboard 'battery' indicator lamp. If that lamp fails it can cause the alternator not to start, or to need to be revved very high before it starts from what little magnetism there is.
Yes I was thinking that something must trigger it to work properly after I spin them by electric wrench.
Adam
to provide the needed field current to boot-strap you need about 1/4 of an amp flowing to the "L" pin on the drawings. Don't use a small battery without a reverse blocking diode (the terminal will come live at +12V when alternator works). An interior lamp (3-5w) connected from +12 battery to L and the -ve on battery to the case should work nicely. if the lamp goes out (or very dim) when spun - its (at least mostly) working.
I think i give up on this and let some alt specialist earn some money, Im petty sure both alts are bad and I cant be arsed to try and fit 3th one, so I will go to alt place to check/refurb this and hopefully forget this annoying saga.
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| Legnum VR-4S | Fiat Panda 100HP !! | a blue one! | Avensis T-180 | VR-4 parts van! |
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i need to replace the bearings in my alternator, anyone know where i can get them from.
Sorry for lack of updates guys, too much **** coming last couple of days, anyway, I did leave originall alt with specialist, after they find out whats happen they give ma a call and 2 options, its shaft gone and its £80 for just did this or £120 for doing everything to new spec so pretty much brainless decision, going for full refurb with 12 months warranty.
Same day PM was ready for collection so I did collect it next morning and fit the same day, just to notice, guide on here its not accurate at all, according to guide which I find out there some guys removed half of engine bay to get alt out and spend couple days on it, its will pops off at the side of engine with a bit of twisting, 1-2 hrs top to swap units over.
So refurbed unit is in and charging is back, what a relief, BUT I was expecting that it will be at least 14+ volts, but its hardly touching 14, more like 13.6 which is annoying, especially when its on not much load, when I turn everything possible on then its dropping to 12.5 which Im not happy with and will pay a visit to this shop asking if that's ok, IMO is not.
Here's pictures of 'new' alt
20171028_163943.jpg
20171028_164011.jpg
Something must be in the water, my alternator has also just started whining, so I think I'll either need a refurbished one, or to get it repaired.
Adam, your low voltage would only be normal with a really really flat battery. I stuck everything (except defogger on rear window) on at idle and it got down from 14.4 to 13.98 V. Garry - Belt slip for me, started 3 days ago xD
This is how it was on this alt while working b4 failure, 14 and a bit on idle, dropping down to a bit below 14 when all equipment on, never below 13, so Im pretty sure its still something wrong after refurb, will give it a couple of miles to run in and see, if not improved then back to the shop.
Hi all
im having the Same problem????
Alt Bearings gone? anyone know of anyone who repairs recons them or does anyone have a good second hand alt or newish 1???
Many Thanks
Small update, its all fine now 14.1V on idle without much on dropping to 13.8V while everything is on.
What it was its me being dumb, I forget to fit back relay in fuse box, noticed it on my work bench and plug back in and its fixed.
Hi can anybody help!
1. need the part no for the alternator on a legnum VR4 p/96?
2.wat is the spec? output 100/120 AMP?
3. is it worth having a recon or new unit?
4. is there anybody who can fit it? Birmingham Area?
Many Thanks
Viamoto have them. The 120A version is obviously more expensive than the 100.
I got the part number from mine using an inspection mirror (on a telescopic rod)
Pretty easy to get, just remember that you're reading backwards or rather mirrored so take careful note and look closely at the part numbers
For what it's worth, my alternator is part number "MD336781" and my car is also a Legnum vr4 1996 P-reg. 100Amp
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1996 Legnum VR4 Type-S Trigger Mauve (Parts Car)
I'm not sure how many parameters change the alternator spec but I have never seen a cold spec auto car without a 120A alternator. If your car is cold spec you will have a button by your right knee that turns on the heating elements under the wiper blades at the bottom of the windscreen.
The bigger the output of the alternator the wider it becomes. This means one of the bolts gets longer and the higher amp alternators are more awkward to fit.