Hi all. Any idea how much an engine rebuild costs
Hi all. Any idea how much an engine rebuild costs
That totally depends on whats currently wrong with it.
'97 Manual Legnum in silver with some subtle mods
My first VR4 - '97 Legnum Dark Green & mean ...it was love at first sight - now sold
Garage reckons one of the cylinders is leaking oil. Had it three years now and it didn't want for anything. I'm absolutely gutted if I have to lose it
Depends what the actual issue is and if you are handy with spanners or not. Could just be the piston rings that are worn. If there is no actual damage to the cylinder wall and the pistons themselves etc then you could just get away with replacing the rings. However I would get it stripped and sent to a machine shop to be sure. While you're there it would be rude not to do some head work and replace stock parts with upgrades such as head bolts, pistons etc etc.
But yeah depends on who is doing the work and what is actually at fault.
It would be nice to know more details if you can get any. What did they find, how did they find it. I've never heard of an engine leaking oil in one cylinder, so it is either a rare issue or something else is wrong.
Basically it's got a misfire that developed over the past month. It seems that it kicks in at a certain temperature, which makes me question the leak theory but then I'm no expert. It runs fine first thing in the morning when temperature is cooler for around 10 miles then the misfire kicks in. At first I thought it was a problem with the lpg so I took it to gastech in Warrington and they diagnosed 4 faulty injectors so I asked them to replace the six. It ran fine for a day then it was back. Whilst going up the m6 I manually switched it from lpg to petrol and the misfire was still there, then it would not switch back to lpg until I restarted the car. Now I'm thinking it might bee the lpg solenoid but I had this replaced 9 months ago. Booked back at gastech and they rang me a couple of hours later telling me it's down to one of the cylinders leaking oil. They had it idling on petrol and after 5 minutes or so the misfiring kicked in. Put the revs up to 3k and it clears with a puff of blue smoke then it's back again. Thats how they came to that decision
I'd be thinking coil packs, plugs and leads first. Can they do a boost leak test?
I'd be suspicious that the puff of smoke is a worn turbo seal, exposed when idling for a while and then revving. I personally think it is far more likely that the misfire and the puff of smoke are unrelated but revving has an effect on both.
I'll have to find someone who can look into that for me but haven't been able to find anyone in my area. I'm trying to find a runabout this weekend so I can take it off the road to investigate. As it happens I'm away next week so I'll try and leave it with the guy who did the major service for me see what he can find.
BTW I can access the forum on my phone but not the laptop.?
Feel a bit better now I managed to book it in with the garage for next week whilst I m away I'll keep you posted with the findings
I have an update. Replaced ht leads and middle coil pack it ticked over for ages without a miss then hiccuped for a few seconds engine management light on then off again and ran ok.
Garage is saying there is a hairline cracking in cylinder head gasket on number 5 cylinder. Drove to work this morning ran perfect 40 miles on motorway, stopped at traffic lights again hiccuped for 10 seconds then went alright again. So I'm looking at replacing head gasket but garage is too busy at the moment.I live in Stoke and work in leigh anyone on here who can help me out with this?
If a head gasket has gone.... its gone! you dont have good days and bad days. sounds like you need to be doing some more diagnosis on those plugs, leads and coil packs before ripping the engine apart. Because then it does start to get expensive.
Dave O
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Thanks dave I've decided to get a second car for work and get more diagnostics done. I'm thinking it's more electrical due to the fact that the problem occurs when engine gets hot
I've just done a complete engine rebuild on mine over the last 12 months and the mechanical repairs have to be meticulous as if you miss something in the repair its very time consuming and costly to strip it again.
But it done and running again but still needs a few bits yet.
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Check the MAF. Sounds like it could be the beginning of the fault I did a how to fix write-up about for another member. Just a thought.
I'm just having a re-think about your engine misfire problems.
Diagnosis this way is probably one of the hardest to do. I personally don't think it's MAF sensor related, well...not from your discribed fault as this would affect all... not just 1 cylinder and i would expect the misfire to occur higher up the rev range under load and not at idle.(unless your misfire details are not really fully explained?)
If this was a problem i was having with mine i would check:
*To rule out your garages suspected cracked head/gasket synario carry out a 'Block Test' (blue liquid test) and see if tjere are traces of exhaust gasses in the cooling system.
* Try to correctly identify the cylinder in question if just on one?
* Do you have rattling tappets? if so maybe do a compression test see if could be valve related due to worn tappets or low oil pressure
* Battery voltage and alternator charge rate. as a low battery on start up can cause flooding of the cylinders.
fully charged battery 12.40 volts, charging correctly 14.40 or there abouts.
* Plugs and leads, as you have done
* Coil packs (as you have done but only one)and electrical connections inc power supply (This is important to check as the ignition and fuel injector looms become very brittle as the vehicle ages and can crack causing the copper wire inside to fatigue and break)
* Fuel injectors for good connections, power supplies same as ignition curcuits
* Fuel presssure test
* Fuel injectors for correct resistances
* Fuel injectors for partially blocked micro filters (which can affect delivery and spray patterns) resulting in fouling of the plugs
* Ignition failure module can also be at fault on the front cam cover
* I can also advise you to check the cylinder head wiring loom over the gearbox where it goes through a metal bracket as engine movements over the years can cause ignition, injection, cam & crank sensor wiring to rub through and short out to earth through the gearbox.
* Last but not least ECU (but highly unlikely)
I know this because ive diagnosed it on others in the past.
Check all this and im sure you will find your fault.
There are probably more things to check but based on what you discribed check these first.
Dave O
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Thanks for the info dave unfortunately I'm at the mercy of what garage I take it to, although I'm quite handy with tools and dabbled with cars in the past albeit it was a different era, nowadays I don't have a garage to work in so I'm solely reliant on someone else. Getting another car will give me breathing space till I get this sorted. I'll be happier if I find someone who's willing to take it on as upto now I feel a reluctance from garages
I'm in Stoke but work in leigh