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Thread: CV boots

  1. #1
    ritch_w's Avatar

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    CV boots

    anyone know how to change CV boots??

    Its for my sister in laws 206 - failed MoT on these and a few other bits and bobs

    I would rather have a go at it myself than for her to shell out £££ to a garage

    any advice appreciated!!

    ta
    BMW E60 525i (3.0) M-Sport.

  2. #2
    psbarham's Avatar

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    is it the inner or outer boots ? if its the outer boots get a haynes manual for just about any fwd car that you have lying about they are all pretty well the same as for the inner boots you have to drop the drive shafts out ,this will lose some oil so pleg the holes up quickly as for the boots they come apart the same as the outers . if you need anymore help just ask

  3. #3
    ritch_w's Avatar

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    its the outers

    dont have any haynes manuals

    is it a case of disconneting the drive shaft from the hub, remove old boot and then slide the new boot on?

    is it a biatch of a job or relatively straight forward??

    ta

  4. #4
    ritch_w's Avatar

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    anyone???

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    Yeah that is about it, but you know it is never that easy.

    Not sure what type of rollbar setup the 206 has as you will need to take the top and / or bottom mount off the get the hub out of the way and the rollbar can make live difficult, you may need a plastic or similar type hammer to get the driveshaft out of the splines in the hub.

    Can't tell you much more have never done one on a 206

    Paul
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  6. #6
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    Not sure how the 206 driveshaft separates? Most other Peugeots, its easiest to just undo the driveshaft nut (they're bl00dy tight- 200lb/ft or something close, so you'll need a huge bar on your t-bar or ratchet handle). Separating the outer joint from the shaft is a simply case of a clout with a hammer - there's a spring clip that normally holds the joint onto the shaft (you should replace these - only pennies from pug dealer). Then you can slide the old boot off, clean the joint, pack with new grease, put new boot on, reassemble shaft with new springclip, put back on car.

    of course, if you're feeling lazier you can buy a CV boot 'stretcher' that will put the boot on over the complete CV joint (it's just a sort of expanding spider thing that you coat in oil and stretch the rubber boot over) - most garages use these as it means you don't have to split the driveshaft.

    Or even easier, you don't even have to remove the driveshaft nut for this. Cut the old boot off with a stanley knife. clean up the joint. Fit a universal 'easyfit' CV boot. These ones are already split, you put them on then glue the split back together with some sort of superglue that's supplied in the kit. Have never used one of these though - although I know people who have and they swear by them.

    If you're going to remove the driveshaft nut - take off the split pin on the castellated nut / or unpeen the locking notch on the nut (if it's one of those) and free the nut off a bit without someone with their foot hard on the brake or the road wheel back on with someone stood on the brakes. Then you can undo it the rest of the way as normal.

    Hope that helps.

  7. #7

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    Like Wirdy said but whatever you do don't let the inner cv joint come out of it's cup. It is a tripod joint and you will end up with a thousand little needle roller bearings not where they are supposed to be!!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wirdy

    Or even easier, you don't even have to remove the driveshaft nut for this. Cut the old boot off with a stanley knife. clean up the joint. Fit a universal 'easyfit' CV boot. These ones are already split, you put them on then glue the split back together with some sort of superglue that's supplied in the kit. Have never used one of these though - although I know people who have and they swear by them.


    Hope that helps.
    I have used these numerous times and have 100% satisfaction from them ...

    Other people i know have used them and they have split open at the join and they have had to do them again ..

    The key to making sure you get it right is taking your time and making sure that the joint does not get contaminated with any dirt or grease .. Make sure you keep your hands as clean as possible ,and as i say again take your time .

    Cost about a Tenner ..

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by WODJNO
    I have used these numerous times and have 100% satisfaction from them ...

    Other people i know have used them and they have split open at the join and they have had to do them again ..

    The key to making sure you get it right is taking your time and making sure that the joint does not get contaminated with any dirt or grease .. Make sure you keep your hands as clean as possible ,and as i say again take your time .

    Cost about a Tenner ..
    Ditto. Bit of a pain to glue, but less so than the traditional boots..!
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  10. #10
    ritch_w's Avatar

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    damn those french bastardos and their 16mm nuts and splined bolts and countersunk 20mm nuts

    the only spanners i dont have are 16mm and dished ring spanner - 20mm and bloody splined thingys

    in the time ive wasted tonight i could have stripped suspension and swapped springs on proper car (galant)

    rant over, off for a bout of teurettes at anyone who will listen

  11. #11
    psbarham's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by ritch_w
    damn those french bastardos and their 16mm nuts and splined bolts and countersunk 20mm nuts

    the only spanners i dont have are 16mm and dished ring spanner - 20mm and bloody splined thingys

    in the time ive wasted tonight i could have stripped suspension and swapped springs on proper car (galant)

    rant over, off for a bout of teurettes at anyone who will listen
    ah the joys of european cars ,try a ford !!!!! bl00dy torx bolts every where definiatly scores highly on the skined nuckel chart . glad i'm not the only one who sufers teurettes after working on a froggy car

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