Tbh, if it's on the line between hot and cold, that should operate fine. Will still be worth trying to get it exactly right though.
Tbh, if it's on the line between hot and cold, that should operate fine. Will still be worth trying to get it exactly right though.
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Can you do a recap of what the problem is, now you have checked a lot of things.
The input and output speed sensors on the top of the gear box are different. One goes straight up and the other is right angle.
Not sure if they function differently.
Did you ensure you put them in the correct location?
Bye for Now!
Do you still have the same error codes. After a battery disconnect reset of the codes.
Yes, both sensors should be on correct spots. Checked from both transmission I have and from amayama teardown pictures.
Just for fool proofing, the one that points upwards should be closer to the front of the car right?
Got both sensors ordered also so will be changing them next week hopefully.
So to recant what has been solved and what is left;
Solved:
-Boost pressure missing
-Engine, asc, abs, etc error codes
Persisting issues:
-Limp mode
-Not shifting to third or fourth
-Transmission error code 43 when going to limp mode
So today I have been testing the car some and added some transmission oil. Now the level seems to be on the top parts of the hot area when in operating temperature.
Car seems to behave a bit better.
This is what happens when I drive it:
-Starts strong with first gear
-Smoothish change to second gear and I can hear it changing
-Dash shows a chabge to third gear
-No sound of actually changing gear
-I bit less power than with second gear and revs keep rising when rising speed
-Dash shows change to fourth gear
-No sound of actual change
-Almost no power
-Revs could keep rising but speed keeps declining
So what I’m thinking is that it can’t or won’t change to the third gear when the dash shows the change and keeps running on the second gear for some reason. It kinda feels like the higher it tries to change the more the second gear slips and loses power.
Any ideas? Starting to wonder if it’s really a mechanical fault in the transmission I put together.
Very odd.
What is the gearbox number and transmission number and what model of car is it. Pre facelift or facelift and what year is it.
Just to get all this info in one place.
I am trying to clarify it you are fitting a later gearbox and ECU into an early car.
ECU: MD975141
Transmission: W5A51-3-E6A
Car is pre-facelift 1996 with ayc, tcl and the Japan winter spec stuff it seems. Both parts should be the originals from the car. I did out together the transmission while the broken one was also on the table and I used all clutch plates from that one(brand new and seemed to the same as the old box) but otherwise all internals should ve from the original box. Could maybe some specific internal part cause this if it was accidentally from the newer box 🤔.
Just now tries to change the rear speed sensor with the other used one I have but no difference. For the front the other one has too much damage and can’t be tried on. Broke it when I took it off..
So you pulled both gearboxes apart and swapped parts from one to the other.
do think you might have made a mistake when putting all back together.
there is a possibility that you have made a mistake as the clutches have to fit only one way round with the correct stacking of the plates with the correct retainers and spring washers. ~
it not that easy to get it right.
if the gearbox has been rebuilt incorrectly then there is no telling what is wrong.
just to recap you are saying the same ecu and gearbox came out of the car and went back into the car but the gear box had some new parts from a different gearbox.
The car came with a W5A51-3-E6B transmission installed that was broken but had been in use for some time before breaking. It was rebuilt by someone before it was installed some thousands of kilometers ago.
W5A51-3-E6A Transmission came with the car in pieces and had been working before it was removed(or so the seller said).
Both were in pieces when I assembled the W5A51-3-E6A transmission, but at different tables. I put it together according to the workshop manual and swapped the clutch plates to the W5A51-3-E6A transmission from the W5A51-3-E6B transmission. All other internals SHOULD be from the W5A51-3-E6A transmission.
It’s always a possibility that the plates went on wrong order, as it seems the workshop manual includes transmissions from W5A51-3-E6B onwards and W5A51-3-E6A has quite different stack.
Was just reading back on the messages the seller sent me before the sale(he was quite confusing) and at one message he mentions that the W5A51-3-E6A was replaced due to it locking to third gear(so same as right now). But W5A51-3-E6B had the same symptoms after it was placed in. The problem according to him was moisture in ECU and drying that had fixed the problem. I think I’ll pign him about it again and see if the symptoms were the same. Also gonna check the workshop manua tomorrow as it had some troubleshooting parts.
Now that I think about it, it would make sense if the clutch stack is in there wrong. R, P and first to second seem to be working and past that it seems like it’s not getting any traction so it could be that the stack for 3-5 is in wrong order. Got to try and find a correct stack order and check it seems. I’ll first wait for the sensors and if they don’t do anything pull the side of the trans open.
that is a possibility.
i trashed my first gear box but only 1 and 2 were trashed the gear box would grinding 1 and 2 but when it went into 3 ,4 ,5 the gear box was fine.
so you might have dropped onto the solution.
i think we have some auto box manuals in the library, they are not the W5A51 but we have W4A51 and another 5 speed which is designed for RWD application.
so the clutch stack up will probably be the same.
@eyeballprawn did some work on the wave spring issue that some versions of the auto box have.
this might be helpful.
https://www.areds.com/pdf/RedCatalog.pdf
have a look at pages 63 to 67 it has an exploded diagram of the W5A51 and parts list.
Thanks! Need to look into it tomortow and maybe I can say straight away if it’s in the wrong order or something.
this might be helpful.
https://www.areds.com/pdf/RedCatalog.pdf
have a look at pages 63 to 67 it has an exploded diagram of the W5A51 and parts list.
this is the location of the alternative engine and transmission manual
https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...anual+auto+box
Here is another external link to a diagram.
https://www.automaticchoice.com/en-g...arts-catalogue
https://www.alltranz.co.nz/shop/driv...itsubishi/20C/
This is @eyeballprawn thread on OZVR4.com for the wave spring issue.
https://www.ozvr4.com/threads/streng...he-cheap.8035/
this is the online ASA page for auto box.
https://mitsubishi.epc-data.com/legn...2,28266,28268/
This seems to be a very detailed doc for disassembly and assembly of F5A51 auto box.
http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/...logs/F5A51.pdf
here is a video of a F4a51 auto box teardown so you can see someone else do it to 4 speed admittedly but you get the picture.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRaRVs1Ol0Q
Last edited by Davezj; 19-09-2021 at 10:58 PM.
Thanks for all the links! That also led me to find a troubleshooting manual for it seems like this transmission and that directed me towards the overdrive or underdrive clutch stack.
Soo, went and put the car up and pulled the clutch side panel off. Oil prop was covered in metal shavings and oil and it seems like there some amount of it on the bottom of the case too. The planetary gear set didn’t seems like it was the culprit from first glance.
Clearly there is some mechanical problem going on. Don’t have much time this week to work on it, but will try to get the clutch pack off totally and just hope the shavings are from something on this side of the trans.
So any ideas on what could give off these shavings and especially stuff that could also make the any gear over second not engage like at all.
But nice touch is that no big pieces were present. Just some really fine dust combined with oil.
The dust as you call it will be friction material. Meaning it is not on your friction plates any more it is in the oil. Any metal shavings in the oil is a very bad thing. If they are big enough to see it is bad.
Last edited by Davezj; 21-09-2021 at 09:07 AM.
Hopefully this works. Didn't find the actual link to this one while at work, but this should be the pdf I found.
Well not exactly as hoped, but you can copy the link and download it still.
Last edited by Confused; 21-09-2021 at 09:18 AM.
From what you are said here which I did no realise before is the car had a working E6B auto box in the and then that broke. So it had the transmission control unit (TCU) in the car that was compatible with the E6B auto box.
You have now fitted a E6A auto box and not changed the TCU.
is this correct?