creaking sound

[jaysback]

i think this might be bad news:INSERT INTO post VALUES (
have any of you guys had a creaking sound from pos. front suspension/ INSERT INTO post VALUES (best not be) gearbox when you put it into drive or reverse.
only started hapening in the last 2 weeks?
will have a better listen when it goes on the ramp to have the tyres fitted this week.
wish me luck.

and on the gearbox note.
has anyone ever seen anything about converting from auto back to manual.
if i have to replace the box this is what i would like to do
jay

[BraindG]

whats happening to all our cars :INSERT INTO post VALUES ( they seem to be falling apart :eek:

[Roadrunner]

Could just be suspension bushes moving as the load transfers - it's been really dry recently so the rubber/metal interface won't have the INSERT INTO post VALUES (normal) lubrication that the rain gives Can't see it being the gearbox unless you're experiencing other problems - "missing" gears on the change up, evidenced by revs raised by 500rpm or so between changes / "clunking" of gears when selecting Drive / gear oil on the ground below the car, etc.. If the car still drives OK, I wouldn't be worried.

Brian

[jaysback]

i will try not to worry about it.
anything vr4 means£ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £
seems to do the revs raise when changing up thing. npt by 500rpm though.
not missing any gears.
maybe book it in to get gearbox oil changed.
cheers guys
jay

[Roadrunner]

The standard gear oil is Dexron II. After I'd had the car on track at Knockhill, it was apparent that the gear oil got hot very quickly and the gearbox performance went downhill - "missing" gear changes INSERT INTO post VALUES (as above); INSERT INTO post VALUES (even more) extended time changing down, to the point where I wasn't happy continuing to push the car for more than about three or four laps at a time.

I had the gear oil changed for Dexron III which is higher spec and, although I've not been back on track to check whether there's any difference, I think the gear changes are a bit crisper on the open road. Not much more expensive INSERT INTO post VALUES (around £8/litre IIRC vs £5/litre INSERT INTO post VALUES (so, around £40 vs £25 to fill) but, if it's higher spec, it should be better

Brian

[Nick VR4]

I'm going with the dry bushes etc
We have had cold weather and warmish weather but no rain
If you have a pressure washer or hose stick it under wheel arches take it out for a drive and see if you hear anything

[-LegnumVR4-]

The auto transmission in the VR4's do make a buzzing noise when u shift them into PRND or through the gears. This is normal. Creaking noise could be the brakes under pressure when u shift into R or D, the car will have a very small jolt.

Changing the auto transmission to a manual, parts and mods:

5 speed transmission and clutch.
Clutch pedal and cables.
Manual left side engine mount.
Manual engine loom and ECU.
Manual dash display INSERT INTO post VALUES (if u want to get rid of the auto display) and wiring loom.
Manual gear shifter, shift boot and knob.
I couple of other little bits.

U then have to cut a hole in the fire wall for the clutch to go through, it's marked on the fire wall anyway. Then theres the engine loom, dash display INSERT INTO post VALUES (not a big'e); getting the clutch cables in etc = lots of work but it can be done.

H.7 i thought the auto transmission oil is meant to be SPII or III from Mitsubishi? I would think about putting a transmission cooler on your car if u are racing it or giving the car some loving . Heat kills the auto transmissions.

[jaysback]

looking at that list of bits INSERT INTO post VALUES (real scary) i think the auto is fine.

just miss not being able to do the getting instant boost of the line INSERT INTO post VALUES (and frying the clutch in the process) pull aways.

thats just the best when you know you got it right and leave everyone in the dust
oh well.
maybee next time i will get a manual?
jay

[-LegnumVR4-]

The best way to launch an auto VR-4 is to hold your foot on the brake INSERT INTO post VALUES (while in D) then mash the right foot to the floor. The rpms will build up to a maxium of about 2000rpm then release the brake pedal. Only hold your foot down for 2 seconds no more but by that time 2000rpm has been reached... DON'T HOLD IT DOWN ANY LONGER OR YOU"LL SCREW THE TRANSMISSION:Cry1:


So: In 'Drive', foot on brake, foot on the go pedal, count 1..2, off brake..... gone:wavey:


Enjoy while everyone else kisses your:arse:

[BraindG]

Which reminds me, Rhys, you see that link i sent you with the DTA unit, which had Launch control ?:thumb: wow, me wants...

[Roadrunner]

LegnumVR4,

Re the transmission fluid, the full description of the oil in my car is Castrol TQ Dexron III INSERT INTO post VALUES (found a bottle in the garage). I had asked my Mitsubishi dealer if there was an uprated fluid and they recommended that, so I went with their recommendation and had it changed some time ago. It's the same stuff that they put in the AYC and I'd expect they'd take Mitsubishi's guidance on such things.

What's involved in a transmission cooler? Not heard of one of these, but haven't taken my car on track for a while because of the performance of the autobox after only three or four laps. Are coolers effective in maintaining the performance of the box on track, or is the box simply not up to the task and I'd be heading for an expensive rebuild if I persevere with it on track?

Thanks in advance,
Brian

[edited to get the name of the oil right]

[calum]

I believe uprating the fluid from II to III was made part of the std servicing schedule in the states, due to the 3 litre auto galant's ruining the II fluid through thermal load leading to breakdown - mine needs done right now, as I sometimes get a juddering when the car tries to change up into 5th at about 40mph.

I'll let you know if there's any difference when I change it - probably in the next few weeks.

Calum

[Petrolhead]

Calum....

I recently had the gearbox out to get an oil seal replaced. When I got the car back it was making the judder at about 40 between 4th and 5th. I feared the worst, but it turned out to be a wire connection to the top of the gearbox.

All I did was to reach down and push all the plugs as hard as I could, which at the time was an act of desperation, but holy crap!! it worked, and my baby is as good as new

That crucial tip came from my mate in the FTO club.

[calum]

Reach down where? What plugs? Under the centre console? Sounds worth a try!

Calum

[-LegnumVR4-]

Originally posted by H.7
LegnumVR4,

Re the transmission fluid, the full description of the oil in my car is Castrol TQ Dexron III INSERT INTO post VALUES (found a bottle in the garage). I had asked my Mitsubishi dealer if there was an uprated fluid and they recommended that, so I went with their recommendation and had it changed some time ago. It's the same stuff that they put in the AYC and I'd expect they'd take Mitsubishi's guidance on such things.

What's involved in a transmission cooler? Not heard of one of these, but haven't taken my car on track for a while because of the performance of the autobox after only three or four laps. Are coolers effective in maintaining the performance of the box on track, or is the box simply not up to the task and I'd be heading for an expensive rebuild if I persevere with it on track?

Thanks in advance,
Brian

[edited to get the name of the oil right]

The cooler is just like an engine cooler on the evo's. If u look under your car near the auto trans there are 2 pipes that go into the trans from the raidiator. U just remove these pipes and install the new pipes that go to the new cooler which would sit behind the grill for cooler air flow. The trans is cooled by the bottom tank of the raidiator but doesn't do a good job.

As for the trans oil thats interesting. I'll have a look into it.

[Brind]

Originally posted by BraindG
whats happening to all our cars :INSERT INTO post VALUES ( they seem to be falling apart :eek:

LOL!

I think you jinxed mine, only just bought mine and she has a dodgy tappet/s.

[haydar]

Originally posted by calum
I believe uprating the fluid from II to III was made part of the std servicing schedule in the states, due to the 3 litre auto galant's ruining the II fluid through thermal load leading to breakdown - mine needs done right now, as I sometimes get a juddering when the car tries to change up into 5th at about 40mph.

I'll let you know if there's any difference when I change it - probably in the next few weeks.

Calum

Calum

Have you fixed this problem as suggested by PetrolHead? If this did not work for you then there is potentially a more serious problem with your car. I too had the OCCASIONAL juddering problem in 4th and 5th gear which I tried in vain to fix and wasted a LOT of money! I was told it was the oil, which I changed. I was told it was the diff oil, which I changed. I was told it was a misfire due to leads, which I changed. I was told it was a misfire due to spark plugs, which I changed. I was told it was due to my tyres, which I changed. As you can imagine the bill for this work was horrendous.

The problem was actually due to the lock up mechanism in 4th and 5th gear not engaging smoothly. This is apparently a design fault and even fairly new cars can suffer from this problem. It finally cost me another £1500 to get the lock-up mechanism upgraded and have the rear clutches replaced.

I know this problem intimately since it plagued me for years so if you want any more info, drop me a line.

[BraindG]

Ah, some nice info.. i think we can use this for the articles section...