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Thread: HKS induction cold air feed

  1. #1
    Brind's Avatar

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    HKS induction cold air feed

    I noticed when buying my VR-4 that the cold air feed which used to be linked to the original air box was removed whereas many other VR-4s with a different filter still kept the plastic air feed pipe which sits near the bonnet latch.

    Will not having it make much difference to power as I'm sure the filter would be breathing in to much warm air without a fresh supply from the front of the car.

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    what im planning...

    goes a lille like this..
    get an extension pipe from induction kit to front bumper, beside passanger fog light.. and have the filter there..
    seen a guy on TGC that had it done..

    currently theres to much hot air getting in, which doesnt help performance...
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  3. #3
    Brind's Avatar

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    I looked at the website where you have pictures of your latest car and my filter has been left exactly the same as yours without the feed pipe.
    It can't be right..
    I'll try the same thing as you then.
    Last edited by Brind; 08-04-2003 at 10:24 PM.

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    When I fitted my HKS last month I followed the instructions in full as they advise leaving the existing cold air feed in place - and even supply a bracket to do this. Why the person who did yours did not follow this I do not know - unless he thought it did not look so nice ? Heres a pic :
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    ive still got mine, its in the boot, come to think of it, i dunno why it wasnt on there..

  6. #6
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    I wasn't aware the car had been modified before I went to see it.
    But after seeing many other cars who have replaced their filters with these open performance types and kept their air feed pipe, it rang bells straight away when I saw mine didn't have it.
    It was apparently fitted by Ralliart themselves.

    Once it arrives I can have a good look at it and see if I can make up a new air feed to it, and somehow shield some of the heat away.

    I had a search on the MLR forum last night and found a few threads talking about cold air feeding a performance filter.
    One guy said his standard filter was better, but again this may have been due to too much heat being sucked in.

    Another guy made up a feed pipe with basic ducting used for tumble dryers, he also tested his method with a cheapy thermometer from Maplins, he measured the temperature outside as a starting point, then tested the temperature around the filter with his home made filter blocked and found the air around the filter was quite hot, he then unblocked his home made filter and the temperature showed very close results to the outside temperature.

    Other kits had been moved with fancy tubing to a better surrounding but the longer the pipe the less effective it becomes.

    So I will take the air feed to the filter instead and shield it as much as possible without defeating the overall object.
    I was thinking of using a 4 inch or 6 inch diameter metal tube similer to tumble dryer hose and have a fabricated stainless steel shield to protect the filter from too much heat.
    Worth a try anyway.

    When I went to have a look at the VR-4 I wanted to buy there was another VR-4 next it which had done fewer miles and was a year newer, I test drove that one too and although wasn't as nice as the one I chose it definitely pulled away better from a standing start, it was completely original too, so that points to mine sucking in warm air.

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    Before & After Mods !

    I did an experiment in an effort to improve my times at my autocross meet last weekend. I removed my K&N drop in filter and replaced with a K&N cone filter in hopes of better power and flow, and I installed a Turbo XS blow-off valve hoping for quicker boost response. Here is what I noted.
    The K&N drop in filter in the stock airbox with stock underhood air intake and shielding seems to perform better than the unshielded K&N cone filter.
    I noticed no improvement with the TurboXS. The stock blow-off valve works quite well albeit quietly.
    I have since returned the car to my previous set up and quite happy with the performance.
    BTW, I have a TurboXS dual stage boost controller set at INSERT INTO post VALUES (low)11 - INSERT INTO post VALUES (high)13 psi. Boost drops to 10 psi @ 5500rpm, especially in the lower gears. How much boost are you guys running ?
    Ed

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    When WMS fitted my HKS induction kit they attached pipe from front vent so that cool air was directed to air filter

    If a reasonable number of us have the HKS filter like this and one of us has a metal cowling/cover fabricated then perhaps we could all buy one, maybe reduce unit cost and all be happier that more cold air/less hot air is getting to air filter

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the info EdmundVR4.
    I'm still eager to take a closer look at how much room I have around the filter to play with, I have to wait until Tuesday before I can get my grubby hands on her!
    But I'll try a decent sized ducting and hopefully get better results.

    Could be worth considering chris g!

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    I've install a CAI on my VR4, used 2 3inch polished alloy pipes and a K&N filter. The filter is a K&N rated at about 4-500bhp. The filter sits in the front bumper and is about a good 300mm of the ground so it wont suck up any water. I have the earlier shape bumper which works very well for this design as the air that enters the spot light and larger hole below it gets pushed up a ramp that i made to feed more cool air to the filter. The ramp also protects the filter from mud/water/dirt that can b thrown up by the tyres and through the vents in the inner guards.

    It's not a good idea to have an exposed filter in the engine bay, the engines produce to much heat and is sucked in by the filter. It doesn't matter if u have a duct to the filter INSERT INTO post VALUES (if exposed) it will still suck hot air.

    Also u can read here how the length of pipe can alter the power u get. I based my design on this and the amount of room i have in these engine bays.

    http://autospeed.co.nz/cms/article.html?&A=0111

    Barry when he gets time will show u the photo of my engine bay
    Last edited by -LegnumVR4-; 23-04-2003 at 03:44 AM.
    96-97 Mitsubishi Legnum VR-4 Type-S

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    Excellent!
    I've been looking for something like this on the net for a while.

    I was going to just feed the filter with a huge air supply but after actually looking at the car after it arrived yesterday I can see just how much room I DON'T have to play with.

    Picture/s would be great of your car.

    I was looking under the bonnet yesterday when the fans came on and it got VERY warm under there.

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    Sounds like you've done some good work there, a large cold air intake is definitely the way to go. However, if you don't build a cold air box, you'd be better off with the standard setup.

    btw - induction length tuning makes a huge difference on naturally aspirated cars and practically no difference on turbocharged cars.

    Calum

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    Heres the picture..

    currently im redesigning the info section.. will take several days..


    www.clubvr4.co.uk/pics/cars/rhys/Picture169.jpg
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    Emailed Barry with all the info about the intake, he's making up a page about how to do it and what u need.

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    wont be too long, need to rewrite it, confirm with Rhys all is ok. Then once ive redesigned the info section it will be up...

  16. #16
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    That looks very nice!
    Any chance of an over the top picture so I can see where the end of that feed pipe disappears off to?
    Saying that, I have the newer model.. looks the way to go, just have to see if I can do something similer..

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