Brilliant, just checking the obvious things!
Brilliant, just checking the obvious things!
I have two different styles of coil pack in the garage. One type measures around 10k and the other 17k.
this was my point @Nick Mann
does the 10k look different to the 17k type
i think i might have given some duff info regarding the coil pack pic above can you confirm with pics nick.
i have given my coils packs to a mate for testing/fixing and issue he had so i don't have a direct comparrrison.
Bye for Now!
The correct one give the correct resistance for correct operation. The other is not the correct one, and does not give you the correct resistance so I don't expect it will work correctly.
Did your coil pack with the low resistance work correctly on your engine before you swapped the ecu and started messing with the wiring?
Sent from my space-aged gizmo
All the coil packs in my garage came from working VR4s. I have a picture but I can't upload it from my phone. They are different shapes. I have four of one type and two of another.
I got the engine started on the standard ECU but it didn't run right, think this was down to the Emanage though. If the lower resistance coils are used in other VR4's then I'm sure it's all good. Really think this is something to do with the ignition settings i have in the new ECU ... going to have to do some more digging. I am getting fuel from the injectors so I assume the triggers on the crank and cam are good.
Last edited by dazjb; 08-07-2016 at 09:36 AM.
I'm now unsure whether I do have the correct setting in the EMU software. The text in the manual says When using passive coils (without ignition amplifier) the option 'Coils without amplifier' should be used. For active coils (with ignition module) the option 'Coils with built in amplifier' should be used.
I currently have it set to the option 'Coils without amplifier'. If our coils have a built in amplifier/igniter i'm wondering whether I should be selecting the other option?
This is a wiring diagram of how my coils are wired in (I have used a diagram from the FTO electrical manual which I have modified slightly to suit my install) ...
Coil Packs 2.jpg
I believe this little symbol in the coil packs is a transistor ...
Transistor.jpg
Does this transistor mean our coils have an internal igniter?
Last edited by dazjb; 09-07-2016 at 07:55 PM.
Our coil packs are active I believe.
They have igniters/amps in them .
Sent from my space-aged gizmo
Cheers Dave, just had the same thing said on the ECUMaster Forum as well. I'm going to alter the settings and crank it over tomorrow to see if I get a spark. Be chuffed if i do .. been chasing this problem for ages now
Been wary of changing it over to active coils until now as it states in the manual if you change it to active when you have passive coils then it can damage either the coils or the EMU. I can handle replacing damaged coils if i balls things up but dont want to fry the EMU.
Result! Swapped the setting over to 'coils with built in amplifier' and I now have spark 😃. Tested the injectors and they're all firing in sequence too. I can now put things back together, check the timing is good and get down to firing it up and sorting the idle out ... finally!
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glad you got it sorted,
don't take a negative from this experience of choosing the wrong setting, you will have learnt a lot from this and because you have shared this with the forum we have all leant a lot.
if more people go down this type of stand alone ECU modification you may well become the person to go to for advice. so the more help we can give you the more info you can share with the forum on how well or bad this ECU operates and the setting you have used to setup the ECU from sctratch.
i am sure it will save others may many hours of play around to get the basic system up and running, so you have a car that will at least run and move.
Then there is a basic map to get the car drivable on road.
the fine tuning is down to personal choice/preference weather it is done on a dyno or road tuning.
Cheers Dave. I have learnt a lot from this, regardless of how frustrating it can be sometimes. I knew this wouldn't be easy as i have never fitted a standalone before + there's not much info out there for the VR4 re all the settings that are needed.
I'll (hopefully) be doing a basic tune on the idle and cruise to enable me to drive it a few miles to the tuners then let them do all the heavy stuff at WOT.
Once I've managed to get things up and running successfully I'll be putting a thread up with all the details for future reference, this should help others who decide to go down the standalone route.
Hi guys,
Sorry to dig this topic up.
I just bought a used workshop manual from Japan, which is 99' May supplement, and I found something interesting. It seems that from 1999 May, the coil secondary resistance changed to 8.5 to 11.5 ohm. If everything correct, this explains why some of you have lower resistance coil pack. So are there 2 part numbers from the Mit ASA?
Kenneth
IMG_20190610_163824.jpg
IMG_20190610_163855.jpg
I just picked a random early car and compared to my own (post may 99)
The older car:
MD323928 (replacement part, MD363547)
My car:
MD363547
mid life part adjustment seems probable.
Are you able to scan the manual in Kenneth?
Actually, that supplement is quite thin, and just this coil resistance related to VR4, the rest are the extra supplement information about the ABS/ASC, and some exterior information about 24 Custom version. I think except this coil resistance info, the rest are not very useful.
Is that definitely a change from 8.5kOhm to 11.5kOhm? It looks like that's the acceptable range to me? But I also don't read Japanese.
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Nev is correct here, the 8.5k with a Tilda and then 11.5k is the acceptable range of values when testing the secondary winding with a resistance meter.